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Waterfalls in Mount Rainier NP One of the biggest photography interests for the range of photographers are waterfalls, especially the larger ones which are usually set up for easy visiting by tourists. There are some excellent ones in Mount Rainier National Park, which are easily accessible from visitors areas (parking with a short hike) or a longer hike if you are prepared (additional information). A Foldout photography guide and maps to the southern half and the northern half of Mt. Rainier NP, by Tom Haseltine, etal., has several of the easily accessible waterfalls on Highway 706 from either the Nisqually or Ohanapecosh Entrances. Additional information for 200 waterfalls in and around the Park is available from Waterfalls Northwest. The waterfalls listed here and on the MAP and LIST of waterfalls Web page are recognized officially by a name and are found on a variety of maps, such as USGS topographic maps and trails maps, and with many on-line and computer map package for Washington state. Some are easy accessible waterfalls, marked below and are makered on the roads in the NP with relatively easy car parking and hiking trails to the waterfalls. Commonly Visited Waterfalls Nisqually Entrance, on Highway 706 from the Nisqually Entrance to Paradise. Christine Falls and Narada Falls. Ohanapecosh Entrance,on Highway 123 and Highway 706 from the along the Stevens Canyon Road to Paradise. Ohanapecosh Falls, Silver Falls, and Stevens Creek Falls. Carbon River Entrance, on Highway 165. Currently the road is closed at the Park Entrance, and all the waterfalls are only accessible along the trail which is currently being repaired from the damage from the November 2006 floods. There are several good waterfalls in the upper reaches and tributaries of the Carbon River, but it's a long dayhike or better, weekend or longer trip. White River Entrance, on Highway 410 to Cayuse and Chinook Passes. Currently there are only a few waterfalls in or near the Park easily accessible, Pass Falls and Myrtle Falls. Photo Tips Everyone has seen photos of waterfalls, and many new photographers ask the obvious question, "How can I get photos like the professsionals?" Well, it's both easy and hard, it all depends on what type of camera you have and how much time and work you're willing to spend getting the images. There are more than few photography guides for capturing waterfalls, a google search will produce a list of photographers with on-line guides, but I can provide a summary of the concensus of those guides, meaning they all have a lot in common that is general and universal. First, I will focus primarily on digital cameras and add comments for film photographers. To begin with you will need a camera with sufficient features with manual mode where you can control the aperture and shutter speed in addition to different metering modes for the exposure, or a separate light meter, and different white or color balance settings. And lastly, have a camera raw output image format where you can make adjustments in a photo editor. The reason for manual mode and the camera controls is that most cameras won't take a good picture of a waterfall in auto or program modes. This is because of the wide range of light of the moving water and scenery around the waterfall and the goal to get the misty look of the flow of the water over the waterfall. In addition you will need a tripod, remote shutter release, and some filters. A fill-in or regular flash is optional and sometimes useful. The first two things you need to do when photographing a waterfall is to assess the light and the scene. All the technology with the camera won't overcome these two factors, and without good light and a good scene, you can't get a decent image. After that the two factors which make a good photo is the water and the area around the waterfall. The problem with many waterfalls in Mt. Rainier NP is that they're almost buried in forests, surrounded by trees and brush. This makes the range of light, from the bright highly reflective water to the deep browns and greens of the surrounding scene, near or past the dynamic range of cameras, and capturing the detail requires making the decisions about the exposure and any bracketing. This means two things. First, consider capturing the images in camera raw and best jpeg formats. This allows you the ability to make the full range of adjustments with the camera raw image and have the jpeg for easier processing if the images works for you. The second is bracket the image, meaning take the full range of shutter and aperture settings you want, such as each full step from 1/60th to 4 or longer seconds for the shutter speed and near the middle of the aperture range of the lens, usually f5.6 to f11. To accomplish the bracketing you will need the rest of your camera equipment. The tripod and remote shutter release to ensure you get the same scene throughout the whole range of settings. And you will need filters to reduce the light through the lens sufficient to get the shutter speed slow enough for the flowing effect. This requires a polarizing filter and at least one neutral density filter. If you have that, it's the process then to spend time at the waterfall to see the light and compose the scene, and then capture the images. If you're a film photographer, a lot of this is old news, the only difference is using the right film, especially today. Personally I prefer Agfa Provia 100/400 and Etkachrome Elite, both fairly neutral color balanced films. Others like Agfa Velvia for its saturation. In short, read the guides, many are more experienced than me, and then take the time to find, see and capture the scene, and then take lots of shots. As the National Geographic photographers say, "Don't leave without the shot." Additional Resources Need maps? You can find sources for maps and download DRG files of USGS topo maps. Please use the contact link to send e-mail. Additional resources and information on waterfalls in the Park are available from the following list.
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